I tend to have some knowledge with respect to varying well depths in different parts of the valley just because I’ve been involved in real estate in the area for so long. However, I noticed a question on my Facebook feed relative to what types of minerals naturally present in our Idaho water. Typically, when people ask how Idaho Water is, the response they get is: “It’s the best you’ve ever had!”

But… is it? Are there potential contaminants that find their way into our water or natural elements that can cause health problems?

I contacted Teton Microbiology Lab in Idaho Falls to learn more. They told me what we normally hear, “Idaho has good water”. They did mention rare cases of pockets with arsenic and fluoride, with an emphasis on “rare”. I asked about sulfer as I have personally experienced it, but they had not. They mentioned that the water (without any outside elements causing contamination or bacteria) usually consists of a high content of calcium and magnesium – aka hard water. Hard water is very easy to test for using test strip kits readily available. It’s also easy to remedy with a water softener. Aside from those rare cases mentioned above and my lack of experience with respect to the potential for radon in water, problems with our well water usually comes from outside sources as described below.

Contaminants:

I already knew what types of tests we normally see as part of home inspections, which typically include testing for:

-E.coli and Coliform

-Nitrates and Nitrites

I split these into two groups because there are two different tests that require two different test methods. The E.coli and Coliform test is the most common type of test with respect to real estate transactions. E.coli or Coliform is usually present due to bacteria from insects, animals or animal waste. I usually recommended a test for those close to a dairy farm, but again, other outside elements can cause issues. Teton Microbiology Lab cited a couple of examples, one included earwigs that had found their way into a wellhead, another with respect to a dead animal buried near a wellhead, and a third was a damaged sewer line near a wellhead. Uncommon, but these things can happen. Once remedied, the water is usually naturally clean. High levels of Nitrates and Nitrites are normally a result of nearby fertilizing, such as a large farm. Today’s wells are sealed with bentonite, so this is less common with newer wells.

Lead or Copper:

The lab I spoke to mentioned that cases of lead and copper are usually a result of lead and copper pipes, not minerals naturally present in the water.

Natural Bacteria:

There are other bacteria that can find their way into wells, most commonly we see iron bacteria. Iron bacteria is not harmful to humans, but it can form a biofilm or slime barrier which can (in rare cases) trap harmful bacteria like E.coli. Iron bacteria can also feed on manganese. While it wasn’t extremely clear as to how the bacteria finds its way into your well or plumbing, it was clear that it can be hard to get rid of. Its presence can usually be determined by simply checking out your toilet water ring. A white, opaque ring around your toilet is probably just hard water. However, a slimy yellow or brownish color scum indicates iron bacteria. Most people assume it’s from toilet water or hard water, and never think anything of it. Again, it’s usually not harmful and I’ll bet there’s quite a few people who have the bacteria in their water system. Getting rid of it usually consists of cleaning out your wellhead, but because it can form a scum, it will usually requires pulling the pump, and actually hiring a well drilling company to scrub your well casing with a brush. It’s expensive, but if you feel so inclined, it’s an available service. It doesn’t guarantee the problem will go away either, because the scum can build up on the inside of your house plumbing pipes.

Sulfur Bacteria:

Sulfur bacteria was the final bacteria that was mentioned. This is usually present in old water heaters, and you’ll know it’s there because you can smell it. Something with failing water heater filter elements can cause the issue. Replacing your water heater filament should clear things up, but there are cases in which a water heater replacement may be necessary.

To conclude, and to include my usual disclosure, I can’t tell you which types of water tests are most appropriate, and what types of contaminants or natural elements may be present in your water. I can tell you that I’ve been drinking it for years, and I’m kind of okay.

If you’ve read any of my articles, you’ll notice that most of them start with some sort of disclosure. Sorry everybody, I’ve got to be careful. I try to give sound advice that makes sense, but I don’t know everything about everything. Most of what I write about comes with some sort of experience I’ve had in the past, or questions asked by customers that I haven’t been able to answer, thus leading to research.

With this topic, I can’t stress this enough. Do your own research. What you are about to read is based on experience and what I’ve been told by those who are experienced. Third-party communication can sometimes lead to inaccuracies, and this article is no exception.

That said, let’s dive into propane tanks. I’m not sure if it was a weird coincidence, but I’ve never been asked how long a propane tank might last until recently, I’ve been asked twice this week. After speaking with a few professionals, I’ve learned that the answer is basically: “a long time”. One professional I spoke to mentioned that the oldest tank he had seen still in operation was dated back to 1939. The next question might be, how long does the propane itself last? The answer is the same, a long time. I myself had (still have) a 500 gallon auxiliary tank that had been filled (by my closest estimation) between 15 and 20 years ago, I started burning that fuel this Spring and have had no issues. This is contrary to what my initial thought would have been, knowing that gasoline goes “bad” over time.

Getting into this a little bit deeper, here or a few tips about both above ground, and below ground tanks, all of which should be verified by your local propane provider. Before getting into that however, remember that you should always check to determine if your propane tank is owned, or leased. If it is leased, you are not likely responsible for the tank maintenance, but should still confirm that it is being performed.

Above Ground:

Above-ground propane tanks are obviously much easier to visually inspect. Experts have advised that you watch for areas of rust on the surface, and keep a fresh coat of paint on the tank. If rust exists, it can be removed with a wire brush prior to a fresh coat of primer and metal paint. Though it wasn’t explicitly stated, I would imagine if you see any signs of pitting, you should contact your propane provider to see about the viability of continuing to use that tank. An important note, propane tanks are usually white for a reason. Painting a propane tank a dark color is usually not advised because the sun can create heat, which can create additional pressure inside the tank. Propane companies usually won’t fill your tank past 80% to leave room for this additional expansion, but I am told that you might be surprised how much this can change on a hot day, especially if you have a dark colored tank. You should also remember not to cover or paint over the data plate on a propane tank. Regulators can last a couple of decades and valves can last even longer – but they will begin to leak overtime. You can request a leak test by your local provider for little to no cost.

Below Ground:

Below-ground tanks are a bit of a different animal, you can’t see much of them in order to inspect. They do have a durable finish, and combat rust with what is referred to as “cathodic protection”. Due to the fact that they are in contact with moist ground and other conditions that would promote corrosion and rust, they are equipped with what is called an anode bag. The anode is buried 12 to 18 inches below the surface next to the tank. There’s a wire that then runs to the anode from another portion of the tank. This bag contains magnesium (or other elements acting as an anode) which takes the place of the propane tank (which would otherwise be the anode) and absorbs what might equate to rust or corrosion on your tank. Look up “cathodic protection”, and you’ll likely find some explanations using a potato as an example, it will start to make sense. Anyway, in a perfect world, these anodes should be tested frequently. The company I spoke to recommend a test every 3 years. This test is done with a volt meter, and they want to confirm that the voltage is within the proper specifications which would indicate that the anode is still working as designed. These tests are not free, but they are affordable and should be performed regularly. Again, if your tank is leased, this is likely handled by your provider. It doesn’t hurt to ask.

Other Tips:

Methanol: Most of the propane providers add methanol to their propane that is delivered in the winter to help valves from freezing. However, not all of us take delivery of propane in the winter because the fuel usually costs less in the Summer months. Methanol is added to combat any residual moisture inside a tank which can cause corrosion and icing on the valves and regulators in the winter months. The way I understand it is that methanol absorbs water, and is then burned with the propane. Water is otherwise heavier than propane, and often times remains at the bottom of a tank. It might be a good idea to ask your provider if it would be wise to add methanol next time you fill up.

Snow: Snow and ice can cause problems not just for your tank, but where your propane line leaves the tank and again where the propane line enters your home. Most propane lines come up, and out of the ground and into the home as opposed to entering the home underground. Make note of these locations, and watch these areas in the winter. Snow and ice build-up can damage these lines from the weight alone, and a cracked line can lead to propane leaking and even entering your home. Propane is heavier than air, so it tends to sink and absorb into basements and crawl spaces, a dangerous combination.

Smell: Propane companies deliberately add a ethyl mercaptan (which smells similar to rotten eggs) to propane. It would be a good idea to teach everyone in your household what propane smells like. If you ever smell propane, or think you smell propane, avoid sparks or flame (don’t turn on any lights) leave the home and contact your propane provider immediately. They all have emergency contacts to help with potential problems.

Detectors: It’s not a bad idea to install propane detectors in your home. While you’re at it, carbon monoxide detectors go hand-in-hand. Propane burning appliances generate carbon monoxide. This carbon monoxide is usually vented outdoors, but bird nests and other blockages can bring heightened levels of carbon monoxide into your home. Carbon monoxide can be just as deadly as propane under the right conditions.

There’s a lot to know about propane safety, and if I were to guess, most of it is ignored. From what I can tell, it’s pretty simple stuff. Find out whether or not you own your tank, and who is responsible for the maintenance. If it’s not you, make sure it’s being done. ask your propane provider when the last time the inspections occurred, and ask them if there are certain inspections or maintenance you should have completed sooner than later. Look at your tank, and any lines are regulators that are exposed, and make sure they don’t get buried in snow. If they do, be careful, especially if you choose to shovel them out.

This has become an increasing hot topic in terms of number of homes, guest home requirements, and so forth. It’s important to remember that City Zoning AND Subdivision CC&Rs take precedence, so this is to outline County requirements to provide baseline. The purpose of this article is to provide an overview of what can be done on a RESIDENTIALLY zoned property within the County limits. Properties zoned commercial, industrial or multi-family (which are rare by comparison) have different regulations, as do properties within City limits. This does not cover all of the County restrictions, only answers to some frequently asked questions, and should be independently verified.

WHAT can I build?
In a nutshell, the County allows the construction of ONE primary home, ONE guest home, and any number of outbuildings such as a shed or barn, so long as they conform to the setback and size requirements.

Manufactured? Modular?
Manufactured homes, except those built prior to 1976 are allowed as long as they are constructed to satisfy the uniform building code (UBC). Modular homes are also subject to the building codes.

Do I need a building permit?
You need a building permit for any structure over 200 SqFt unless it is a dwelling, in which case a permit will be required for any size.

What are the building code requirements?
As of the time of this writing, Teton County IDAHO is operating under the 2012 International Building Code (IBC) & the 2012 International Residential Code (IRC) for determining and enforcing the quality of construction, while Teton County WYOMING has mostly adopted the 2015 versions of the code.

Size and setback requirements?
Size:Height: 30’ (60’ for some structures, such as barns in the A20 zone)
Fence Height: 6’ (without obstructing a corner lot sight line)
***Some decks, chimneys, wells, septic tanks, etc. can in some instances come within 6’ of a property line.Currently there is no minimum or maximum restriction on home size, except for those outlined for guest homes.
Setbacks (for building only, not septic or well):Front: 30’
Rear: 40’
Side: 30’
Teton River: 100’
Stream or Creek: 50’
Irrigation Ditch: 15’
Accessory buildings such as sheds under 200 SqFt can be as close as 12’ to a property boundary.

An article regarding septic installation and setback requirements can be found here.

Guest homes?
ONE guest dwelling can be constructed (attached or detached) to the primary unit and must have it’s own kitchen, bathroom and bedroom. The maximum size must not exceed 50% of the primary dwelling square footage or 900 SqFt, whichever is GREATER, not to exceed a total of 1500 SqFt. If the parcel is 5 acres or larger, these size requirements shall not apply. On acreages smaller than 1 acre, guest dwelling are not allowed.

How many homes can I build?
TWO dwellings are allowed per parcel, unless the parcel is smaller than one acre, in which case ONE dwelling is allowed.

Trailers? Campers?
Storing your OWN utility or livestock trailers is not restricted, though vehicle storage for a fee or a business is only allowed in industrial zones. RV or camper storage is restricted to ONE per property, and questions regarding occupying or residing in an RV or camper on your property (either short-term or long-term) should be directed to Teton County. Camping is not restricted on your property unless you are charging a fee, in which case a permit would be required.

Sheds & outbuildings?
Accessory buildings are allowed and cannot exceed 3000 SqFt and 2 stories in height, this applies for all types of zoning. Accessory buildings are not to be confused with accessory DWELLINGS and CANNOT be occupied as a residence.

Business or lodging operation?
Properties that are in residential zones can operate under approved conditional use permits.

An article regarding Conditional Use Permits can be found here.

Well, septic, power, phone required?
Wells are not required. An approved wastewater system such as a septic system is required for any dwelling, and must be approved with the Eastern Idaho Public Health Department.

An article regarding septic systems can be found here.

Summary
As mentioned above, this article is only a loose guideline, and questions should always be directed to the County, City and Homeowners Associations. There are other county-wide restrictions that must be considered as well, from lighting restrictions and requirements to parking an driveway requirements for fire department access. It is also important to remember that there are specific requirements when building in areas with hillsides, wetland, floodplain, or specific overlays such as zoning overlays and even wildlife overlays.

As a final note, these comments are based on Title 8 of the Teton County, Idaho Zoning Ordinance, amended May 26, 2009. The county is currently considering a revamp or rewrite of this ordinance to clarify certain points, and potentially make changes. A link to the current code can be found here. If this link is broken, it is likely that this code has been amended.