Teton Realty Blog

Teton Region Real Estate Market Stats, Articles & News

Roofs, Property Value and Peace of Mind

By Leave a Comment

A family friend reached out a few weeks back about the potential impact of a certain roofing system compared with another and how it might impact the value of their property down the line. It resonated with me as I am currently in the process of replacing the original roof on my 35-year-old home. My own experience has been somewhat tempestuous as we struggled with replacing an uncommon roof type and battling some significant damage we uncovered along the way. My home is an old family cabin that my wife and I have renovated over several years, and the old roof was an uncommon stone coated metal cold roof. We don’t have any plans to sell, so resale wasn’t on our minds. We wanted something that would blend in with the forest setting and perform well for a long period of time for the reasons mentioned above. Ultimately, we chose a very thick, shake-like asphalt shingle. We simplified the roof rakes and beefed up the Boston ridge to create a slightly more modern look, which we are happy with. In our case, we probably did increase the value of our home, and we are happy with the look of the new shingles even though we were concerned with it.

Anyway, when comparing the two roofing systems my friend was considering I didn’t feel one would significantly change the property’s value. In their case neither option would have been unusual for the home, but one was clearly more expensive. It was difficult for me to answer whether or not they would see a return on the investment for the more expensive roofing system. To answer the question, this is where I shifted focus to the overall picture. Sometimes certain home improvements, materials used or construction methods do not have a direct impact on a property’s value, but can when viewed in conjunction with the rest of the home and it’s finishes. I distinctly remember an incredible custom home of which the owner spared no change or effort throughout, but installed vinyl floors which was (honestly) just his preference. However, when helping him with the sale, it was a sticking point when comparing the finishes through the rest of the home on such a high dollar listing. Similarly, I remember walking through a property where the owner did some light renovations in anticipation of a sale. The fresh paint was great, but the Viking dishwasher felt odd to me. Yes, it was undoubtedly expensive and was certainly a talking point, but it didn’t fit well with the rest of the finishes and I don’t think that homeowner saw a return on that investment. The moral of the story, underdoing it and overdoing it are both bad, but in different ways.

Okay, if you’re still reading, on to the peace of mind part. I have probably written about this in other articles, but I wanted to touch on a few other considerations, particularly as we see new construction ticking up.

1) Snow slides. In my case, a metal roof was not an option. I have a wraparound deck that the snow would absolutely destroy in the event it were to slide off. My old roof never slid, and I hope my new roof never slides. In other cases, you want the snow to slide. Low roof pitches or shed roofs can be a good example.

2) Ventilate! I can’t think of very many circumstances where I would not recommend installing a ventilated or cold roof to help mitigate ice damming. This will usually include some form of screen or vent along the roof soffit and a vent in the gable ends or along the ridge of the home.

3) Ice Damming. Believe it or not, we get snow and ice up here. I believe code requires ice and water shield along the roof edges and valleys, but I usually suggest putting it everywhere, if you can. There are better ways to prevent ice damming as mentioned above in the ventilation section, but make sure you are protected in the areas mentioned and it never hurts to have the extra protection, particularly on roofs with a lower pitch.

4) Pitch. Speaking of pitch, be careful with this one. The modern, low sloping or flat roof systems are becoming more and more popular, but they can pose significant challenges when it comes to snow accumulation and ice damming. I’ll never forget all of the struggles I’ve had over the years with commercial building management where flat roofs with drain systems are common. The moral of that story, make sure you have heat tape in those drains, and monitor them closely. It doesn’t take long for these to plug up with ice creating a swimming pool on top of your roof.

As a final bit and disclosure, I’m a real estate agent, not a roofer. I have experience with some of these things, but am in no means an expert when it comes to the construction types and methods best for your situation. Always consult with your contractor and local roofer, and keep in mind our unique climate when it comes to architects. People tend to bring their local architect with them from dramatically different climates which can often lead to incompatibility with local contractors and issues with construction methods down the line.

Manufactured vs. Modular, What’s the Difference?

By Leave a Comment

With building costs continuing to rise, the popularity (or at least the idea) of prefab homes also continues to grow. As a result, I have seen an increase in interest for land that will accommodate these types of homes. However, there seems to be some confusion as to what “these types” of homes are, and what the differences are between manufactured vs modular homes. This confusion has lead some subdivision homeowners associations disallowing anything but stick-built, and has made it difficult for those interested in anything other than a stick-built home to find suitable land.

I’ll save the difficulties and challenges finding suitable land for another post, but I would like to dive into the differences between these types of homes to help shed some light on the issue. Note that some of this is subject to my own experience and opinion. Also, the terms associated with the different types of homes tends to vary by region.

Manufactured: This can be confusing because a manufactured home is prefabricated just like its modular counterpart. Manufactured homes, however, are built in compliance with FEDERAL HUD manufactured home construction and safety standards. They usually have a metal frame which serves as the floor system, as well as the frame for the transportation system. They then can be set on a permanent foundation, but don’t necessarily have to be. These types of homes have transportation size limitations. This is often where you hear the phrase “double wide”, meaning two finished portions of the house that are put together on one permanent foundation at a later date.

Modular: As defined by the State of Idaho division of building safety, a modular building is any building other than a manufactured home that is entirely or substantially prefabricated or assembled at a place other than the building site. I would personally add: Modular homes have construction standards set by local, as opposed to federal regulation. The easiest and best explanation I have seen is that modular homes cannot be moved. It is feasible that a manufactured home could be split, or picked off its foundation, moved to another foundation and placed or reassembled. (Note that when I say “cannot be moved” I have to be careful here, knowing that even stick built homes can be moved.) Sometimes modular home companies create their own category of homes such as a “phased built” or “systems built” to further differentiate and separate their product from a manufactured home. However, in my opinion, these are one in the same as modular. A modular home doesn’t have to be completed in major sections. It could be completed in wall sections and assembled on a permanent foundation. They would normally be transported on a flatbed trailer as opposed to a trailer integrated with the structure.

For further clarification; in my opinion, the following are all forms of modular homes, all of which would be subject to local building codes and inspections which would later receive a standard certificate of occupancy:

– a tiny home built in a factory or shop and delivered to a permanent foundation that conforms to local building codes and receives inspections similar to those required for stick built homes.

– a home constructed in small sections (such as individual walls) potentially with pre-installed siding, floor systems and precut materials installed on a permanent foundation.

– a “kit” home delivered in panelized sections installed permanent foundation.

RV’s: To make matters more confusing, we are beginning to see a rise in popularity of RV style tiny homes that can later be converted to permanent structures. Again, much of this is all subject to local and federal laws. A company building a custom home classified as an RV with wood siding and residential windows would need to comply with Transportation Department requirements in order to be legally transported, but this type of dwelling (RV) may have challenges in obtaining local zoning approval. For example, RVs can often only be parked in one location for storage, and if they are going to be used as a dwelling, can usually only be done so temporarily. In addition, parking an RV may require a special permit.

Idaho Division of Building Safety information for Tiny Houses, Manufactured Homes, Modular Buildings & Recreational Vehicles can be found HERE.

To be continued: Suitable land for manufactured or mobile homes and RVs.

Cold Roofs, Explained

By Leave a Comment

Due to popular demand, I’m going be writing more and more articles referencing some sort of construction and my experience with it in the real estate industry. Because of this, I’m going to have a new category and page where you can find all of these construction specific articles on my website tetonrealtyblog.com – “Know Your Home”.

Recently, a past client of mine who purchased a beautiful piece of land in Snow Crest Ranch wanted to sit down with me to get my opinion on construction methods. I assumed this would be for resale value or potential rental income with respect to a layout and design, but we talked more and more about construction methods and my personal opinions there. One of the topics was cold roofs, and their importance in Teton Valley. To be clear, not all contractors, people, or Realtors believe cold roofs are a good solution, so take my advice with a grain of salt, and make sure to consult with your architect and/or contractor.
First, what is a cold roof? A cold roof is basically a roof in which the insulation is above the ceiling of the home, but there is an air space between the insulation and the roof itself which is not conditioned or heated space. In most cases, this space is also ventilated to allow airflow between the insulation and the roof.

The primary purpose of a cold roof, particularly in our climate, is to prevent ice dams. Because most of the heat inside your home rises and “stacks” along the highest points of the ceilings, much of that heat and the moisture in the air along with that heat finds its way through the roof and into the attic space. Most people don’t realize that even latex paint is not a vapor barrier, it will allow moisture and heat to convect through the drywall and the insulation. If this heat doesn’t have a way to escape before it gets to the bottom of the roof opposite the snow sitting on that roof, it will eventually melt the snow. As the snow melts, that water turns to ice which creates ice dams, those gigantic icicles hanging from your roof eaves. Once this begins to happen, ice can freeze up and under flashing, and creep into areas it’s not supposed to be, often causing leaks on the inside of your home. There are other benefits to a cold roof, such as ventilation. As I had mentioned above, often times that warm air carries some of the moisture inside the home along with it. These ventilated spaces between the insulation and the roof allow this humid air to dissipate.
Depending on the style of construction, cold roofs are easier to achieve with some types of roof systems than others. For example, if you are planning on flat ceilings with vaulted ridgelines, you’ve got plenty of space for an unconditioned attic, adding vents in the soffits and along the ridge is an easy task. However, you might be building a shed style roof or perhaps your ceilings are vaulted inside to match the roof lines. In these cases, it can be difficult to achieve the required R-value if you reduce the thickness of the insulation to allow space for ventilation. One consideration here would be to use closed cell spray foam which has a higher R-value per inch. If you do this, make sure you work closely with your contractor and insulator to make sure that the foam is thick enough and the proper vapor barriers are in place as not to cause condensation problems.

Will Heat Pumps Work in the Teton Valley Climate

By Leave a Comment

You’ll probably find a video in the coming weeks with respect to heat pumps in our climate, I’ve just installed one. One can assume that probably means that they do work in our climate, otherwise I wouldn’t have installed one. The real answer is, pretty much. With that said, read on for details.

The first thing to understand about heat pumps is how they work. In a traditional sense, heat is created by burning fuel (in the case of Teton Valley, propane, whereas natural gas is not available) or with the use of an electric heating element much the heating element in your oven, or the elements that glow bright red in your toaster. Heat pumps work much differently. Essentially, they absorb heat from the outside and transfer that heat inside your home through refrigerant. Refrigerant has all sorts of weird properties that allow it to boil and change from a liquid to a vapor at temperatures far different than something like water.

Not all heat pumps are created equal, there are different types. The most common types are air source and ground or water source heat pumps.

Ground source heat pumps are more traditionally referred to as geothermal systems.  There are different types of geothermal systems. The most common types are open-loop and closed-loop, we see closed loop systems more frequently in our area, but I have seen both. With a  closed loop  system, liquid is pumped through tubes in the ground which is naturally warm, even throughout the winter months. The heat that is absorbed is then extracted from the liquid as it returns to the heat pump, and the cold water is then pumped back into the ground to be reheated naturally. In the case of an open loop system, groundwater is used usually from a domestic well, the heat is extracted, and the water is then allowed to drain or in some cases is injected back into the ground.

Air source heat pumps are more traditionally referred to as condensers and evaporators, a good example is an air conditioning system. An air conditioner works by absorbing heat inside the home, then transferring it outside. In the winter the cycle reverses, and the heat is absorbed from the outside air and transferred inside. Believe it or not, there’s enough heat in the outdoor air even at very low temperatures. Obviously a major benefit of an air source system is that it can be reversed, and the home is then air-conditioned during the cooling months. The downside is that these systems begin to lose efficiency at about 0 degrees Fahrenheit, but can operate efficiently in Sub-Zero temperatures to a point. This is why at the preface of my article I said “pretty much.”

With respect to the air source systems, it never gets below 0 degrees in Teton Valley, so there’s nothing to worry about. Right? Sarcasm aside, there are solutions. The easiest solution is obviously a backup heat source that can be activated when the temperatures get too low for the system to operate efficiently. The other solution is to add an auxiliary form of heat to the system which can either be in electric coil that is activated at very low temperatures, or a gas furnace that activates at low temperatures. The latter is referred to a “dual fuel” system.

There are other types of air source heat pumps which are commonly referred to as “mini splits.” Mini splits are basically an air source heat pump, but rather than having the system tied to a traditional furnace, they usually have a smaller self contained blower connected to an outside condenser via refrigerant lines. Mini splits are very common in most parts of the world because of their efficient cooling and heating capabilities and the fact that they can easily be retrofitted to any residence or building with relative ease. The downside is that most mini split indoor units (often called heads) don’t have any way to add auxiliary forms of heat such as heating elements or gas-burning forms of backup heat. Regardless, I do anticipate seeing more of these types of installations with backup heat such as baseboard electric which can be used seldomly when the temperatures dip into the sub double digits.

As for my system, it’s ducted and ductless mini split system with backup heat strips and temperature lockouts, all of which is controlled from my smartphone. I’d be happy to fill you in, it’s pretty cool stuff.

Recent Testimonials

Teton Valley Realty